Seam and method of formation.



A. A. MERRITT, SEAN! AND METHOD OF FORMATION.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 18. 19131: 1,21 9,024. Patented Mar. 13, 1917.

a SHEETS-SHEET 1.

6! a/ 29' 7 a j 7 6 a I v Qp 6 30 J a 6 a $0 A l .3] r r r 75 7 FY33 32 1 (L L) 3' C L r j /6 W d l/ A 5 r d x z a! 51 3 6 73 d 2: T a 3m 3] V A. A. MERRITT.

SEAM AND METHOD OF FORMATION.

3 SHEETS-SHEEI' 2.

Patented Mar. 13, 1917.

A. A. MERRITT.

I SEAM AND METHOD OF FORMATION.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 18. I915.

Patented Mar; 13; 1917.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

Mnvmvmv UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ARTHUR A. MERRITT, F VJORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO VILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE 00., OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 13, 1917.

Application filed October 18, 1915. Serial No. 56,459.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ARTHUR A. Mnunrr'r, a citizen of the United States of America, and a resident of lVorcester, Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improve ment in Seams and Methods-of Formation,

whichinvention is fully set forth in the fol-' lowing specification.

The present invention relates to an inn proved seam and method of forming the same. The seam is designed, and particularly adapted, for oining together two abut ting or overlapping edges of fabric. It can also be used for overseaming two superimposed edges of fabric, or binding a single edge, or for ornamental and other uses. The method is designed particularly for the rapid and eflicient formation of such a seam.

he invention will be readily understood by reference to the accompanying drawings illustrative thereof, and wherein Figure 1 is a plan view of the seam as used in joining two abutting edges of fabric;

Fig. 2 is a sectional View on line 22- of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 1s a plan vlew of the seam as used in joining two overlapping edges of fabric; F i 4 is a sectional view on line 4-1 of Fig. 3;

g. 5 is a sectional view on line 55 of 3; gs. 6, 7 and 8 are a group of v1ews- F1 6 being a top plan view, Fig. 7 a section on line 7-7 of Fig. 6, and Fig. 8 a section on line SS of Fig. 6each illustrating a portion of a seam such shown in Fig. 1 and the relative positions of two needies and two loopers at one stage of the operation thereof in the formation of the seam Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are a second group of similar views representing a succeeding stage of the operation;

Figs. 12, 13 and 14: are a third group of similar views, including a portion of the feed element in addition to the needles and loopers, representing a further succeeding stage of the operation;

Figs. 15, 16 and 17 are fourth groupof similar views representing a still further succeeding stage of the operation;

Fig. 18 is a detailed sectional view illustrating the first step in the formation of the threads in making the seam;

Fig. 19 is a similar view illustrating the second step in the thread formation; and

Fig. 20 is a similar View illustrating the third step of the thread formation.

Referring first to F igs.'1 and 2, a and Z) are two pieces of fabric with their edges abutted, or they may be abutting edges of the same piece of fabric. 0 is a thread looped back and forth along one surface of the fabric, the loop extending diagonally across the line of abutment of the edges. (Z is a thread similarly looped back and forth along the other surface of the fabric, the loops extending diagonally across the lineof abutment of the edges, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1. For identification, these threads 0 and (Z are referred to as surface or looper-threads. c is a thread having loops projected through the fabric a from one side thereof to the other, said loops interlocking with loops in both surfacethreads c and (Z.

. f is a similar thread having loops projected through the fabric I) from one side thereof to the other, its loops also interlocking with loops in both surface-threads 0 and d. For identification these threads 6 and f are referred to as looking or needle-threads. As clearly shown, the thread of each loop in thread 0 at one edge of the seam passes through two loops in thread 7, and likewise the thread of each loop in said thread 0 at the other edge of the seam passes through two loops in thread 6. The thread of each loop in thread (Z at one edge of the seam passes through two loops in thread 7, and at the other edge of the scam the thread of each loop in said thread (Z passes through two loops in thread 6. In one face of the seam the thread of each loop in thread 6 passes through two loops in thread 0, and the thread of each loop in thread 7 also passes through two loops in thread 0. In the other face of the scam, the thread of each loop in thread 6 passes through two loops in thread (Z, and the thread of each loop in thread f also passes through two loops in thread d.

A particular feature of the seam above described is that it is composed of two groups of connecting loops disposed in what may be termed spiral formation through the fabric from' side to side and across the faces of the seam from edge to edge thereof. One group of loops may be traced as follows, referring to Fig. 1-a loop on of what may be called the first surface-thread 0 projects diagonally through a loop a of what maybe called the first locking-thread e; a loop of what may be called the second lockingthread projects through said loop 977., a. loop 7) (dotted lines Fig. 1) of what may be called the second surfzure-thread projects; diagonally through said loop 0 an alternately succeeding loop 9 of the first lockingthread 0 projects through said loo-p 19, an alternately succeeding loop 1'- of the first surface-thread projects diagonally through said loop 9', and so on. The other group of loops may be traced as follows-a loop 8 (dotted lines Fig. 1) of the second surfacethread (Z projects diagonally through a loop t of the second locking-thread 7"; a loop a of the first locking-tnread 6 projects through said loop a; a loop '0 of the frst surfacethread projects diagonally through said loop Lb, an alternately succeeding loop of the second locking-thread projects through said loop 4;; an alternately succeeding loop m of the second surface-thread projects diagonally through said loop 10, and so on. Thus the two spiral groups of loops alternate with and cross each other from stitch to stitch.

In the seam illustrated in Figs. 3, at and 5, the edges of fabric a. and Z) are overlapped instead of abutted as in Figs. 1 and 2. The thread formation is the same as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2.

The making of the seam above described requires four thread-carrying implements, such as two vertically operating threadcarrying needles operating to simultaneously project loops of the locking threads through the fabric from opposite directions, and two horizontally operating loopers acting to simultaneously project loops of the surface-threads from opposite directions into interlocking engagement with the loops of needle-threads in both faces of the seam. The succession in which the thread loops are formed and interlocked with each other will be readily understood by reference to Figs. 18, 19 and 20. As shown in Fig. 18, loops of the locking or needle-threads c and f are simultaneously projected from opposite directions through the fabric. Thereupon, as illustrated in. Fig. 19, loops of the surface or looperthreads 0 and (Z are simultaneously projected from opposite directions through said loops of threads 6 and respectively. The feed then advances the work, and thereafter, as illustrated in Fig. 20, the next succeeding loops in threads 6 and are projected from opposite directions through said loops in surface threads 0 and (Z, and by the further movement of their needles are carried through the fabric to the position in which similar loops are shown in Fig. 18.

This loop formation and interlocking of loops will be still further more clearly understood by reference to the series of views, Figs. 6 to 17 inclusive, illustrating the positions of the tln'ead-carrying implements at different stages of the operation. In Figs. 6, 7 and 8, needles and 31 have about reached the limit of their simultaneous movement through the fabric in opposite directions and have drawn up the threads from the previous stitches. The loopers 32 and 33 are, beginning to advance in opposite directions from their retracted positions toward the needles. In Figs. 9, 10 and 11, the needles are partially withdrawn from the fabric and the loopers have entered loops in the needle-threads respectively. In Figs. 12, 13 and 14, the needles are beginning their next succeeding movement toward the fabric, the points thereof have engaged in loops of the loo-per-threads c and (Z, respectively, and the feed clement 3-1 (shown only in these views) is in engagement with the work and feeding the same. In Figs. 15, 18 and 17, the loopers are near the limit of their retracting movements, have released the previously engaged needle-loops, and the needles ha ve made a part of their movement through the fabric. 'The stage of the operation represented by these views is next succeeded by the stage represented by Figs. 6, T and S.

The paths of travel of the points of the loopers suitable for the proper action of the latter are illustrated by the dotted ellipses shown in Fig. 15, the heavy dotted ellipse representing the path of movement of the point of looper 32, and the light dotted ellipse 36 representing the path of movement of the looper The stitch-forming mechanism may, however, be such that the loopers may have other paths of movement.

The invention in its generic aspect, both from the standpoint of the product and method, is susceptible of the production of thread structures or seams other than the specific four-thread structure illustrated and described in detail.

lVhat is claimed is:-

1. In a tiread structure, the combination of a surface-tlu'ead looped back and forth in one face of the structure, a second surfacethrcad looped back and forth in the other face of the structure a locking-thread looped back and forth in interlocking engagement with the loops in both surface-threads along one edge of the structure, and a second locking-thread looped back and forth in interlocking engagement with loops in both surface-threeds along the other edge of the structure, each of said four threads serving to secure the loops of the threads with which it interlocks, and the loops of said threads being so arranged as to project through each other in the following ordera loop of the first surface-thread projects through a loop of the first locking-thread; loop of the second locking-thread projects through said loop of the first surfacethread; a loop of the second surface-thread projects through said'loop of the second locking-thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first locking-thread projects through said loop of the second surface thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first surface-thread projects through said last-named loop of the first lockingthread, and so on.

2-. In a thread structure, the combination of a. surface-thread looped back and forth 4 in one face of the structure, a second surface-thread looped back and forth in the other face of the structure, a locking-thread looped back and forth in interlocking engagement with the loops in both surfacethreads along one edge of the structure, and a second locking-thread looped back and forth in interlocking engagement with loops in both surface-threads along the other edge of the structure, the thread of each loop in both surface-threads passing through two loops in a locking-thread and the thread of each loop in both locking-threads passing through two loops in a surface thread, each of said four threads serving by such interlocking of loops to secure the loops of the threads with which it interlocks, and the loops of said threads being so arranged as to project through each other in the fol lowing ordera loop of the first surfacethread projects through a loop of the first locking-thread; a loop of the second-lock ing-thread projects through said loop of the first surface-thread; a loop of the second surface-thread projects through said loop of the second locking-thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first locking-thread projects through said loop of the second surface thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first surface-thread projects through said last-named loop of the first lockingthread, and so on.

3. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of a surface-thread looped back and forth against the surface of the fabric in one face of the seam, a second surface-thread looped back and forth against the surface of the fabric in the opposite face of the seam, a locking-thread looped back and forth through the fabric in interlocking engagement with the loops in both surface-threads along one edge of the seam, and a second locking-thread looped back and forth in interlocking engagement with loops in both surface-threads along the other edge the seam, each of said four threads serving to secure the loops of the threads with which it interlocks, and the loops of said threads be ing so arranged as to project through each other in the following order a loop of the first surface-thread projects through a loop of the first locking-thread; a loop of the second locking-thread projects through said loop of the first-surface thread; a loop of the second surface-thread projects through said loop of the second locking-thread; an

alternately succeeding loop of the first locking-thread projects through said loop of the second-surfs.ce-thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first surface-thread projects through said last-named loop of the first locking-tln'ead, and so on.

4. In a seam, the combination With fabric, of a surface-thread looped back and forth against the surface of the fabric in one face of the seam, a second surface-thread looped back and forth against the surface of the fabric in the opposite face of the seam, a locking-thread looped back and forth through the fabric in interlocking engagement with the loops in both surfacethreads along one edge of the seam, and a second locking-thread looped back and forth in interlocking engagement with loops in both surface-threads along the other edge of the seam, the thread of each loop in both surface-threads passing through two loops in a locking-thread and the thread of each loop in both locking-threads passing through two loops in a surface-thread, each of said four threads serving by such interlocking of loops to secure the loops of the threads with which it interlocks, and the loops of said threads being so arranged as to project through each other in the following order a loop of the first surface-thread projects through a loop of the first locking-thread; a loop of the second locking-thread projects through said loop of the first surface-thread; a loop of the second surface-thread projects through said loop of the second lock ing-thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first locking-thread projects through said loop of the second surface-thread; an

alternately succeeding loop of the first surface-thread projects through said last-named loop of the first locking-thread, and so on.

In a. thread structure, the combination of two surface-threads looped from opposite directions and simultaneously across both faces respectirely of the structure, and two locking-threads interlooping with said surface-threads from opposite sides respectively of the structure, said locking-threads being thus interlooped simultaneously with respect to each othe and also simultaneously with respect to the looping of said surfacethreads for each stitch, each of said four threads serving by such interlocking of loops to secure the loops of the threads with which it interlocks, and .the loops of said threads being so arranged as to project through each other in the following order-a loop of the first surface-thread projects through a loop of the first locking-thread; a loop of the ing-thread projects through said loop of the second surface-thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first surface-thread projects through said last-named loop of the first locking-thread, and so on.

6. In a thread structure, the combination of two surface-threads looped from opposite directions and simultaneously across both faces respectiv -Z' of the structure, and two locking-threads interlooping with said surface-th 'eads from opposite Sides respectively of the structure, said locking threads being thus interlooped simultaneously with respect to each other and also simultaneously with respect to the looping of said surfacethreads for each stitch, each of said four threads serving by si'ich interlocking of loops to secureethe loops of the threads with which it interlocks.

7. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of two surface-threads looped from opposite directions and simultaneously across both faces res iectively of the fabric, and two locking-tln'eads inter-looping with said surface-threads from opposite sides respectively of the fabric, said locking-threads being thus interlooped simultaneously with respect to each other and also simultaneously with respect to the looping of said surfacethreads for each stitch, each of said four threads serving by such interlocking of loops to secure the loops of the threads with which it interlocks, and the loops of said threads being so arranged as to project through each other in the following order a loop of the first surface-thread projects through a loop of the first locking-thread; a loop of the second locking-thread projects through said loop of the first surface-thread; a loop of the seconc surface-thread projects through said loop of the second locking-thread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first loclring-thread projects through said loop of the second surfacethread; an alternately succeeding loop of the first surface-threiul pro jects through said last-named loop of the first locking-thread, and so on.

8. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of two surface-threads looped from opposite directions and simultaneously across both faces respectively of the fabric, and two locking-threads interlooping with said surface-threads from opposite sides respectively of the fabric, said locking-threads being thus interlooped simultaneously with respect to each other and also simultaneously with respect to the looping of said surface-threads for each stitch, each of said four threads serving by such interlocking of loops to secure the loops of the threads with which it interlocks.

9. A method of thread structure or seam formation consisting in projecting two loops of threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions, then projecting two loops of threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions in planes transverse to the planes of formation of the first-named loops, said second-named loops passing through and lockingthe first-named loops respectively, then repeating in an advanced position the formation of loops such as first-named, then repeating in said advanced position the formation of loops such as second-named the same passing through and locking the third-named loops respectively, and so on.

10. A method of thread structure or seam formation consisting in simultaneously proj ecting two loops of threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions, then simultaneously projecting two loops of threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions in planes transverse to the planes of formation of the first-named loops, said second-named loops passing through and locking the first-named loops respectively, then repeating in an advanced position the simultaneous formation of loops such as first-named, then repeating in said advanced position the simultaneous formation of loops such as second-named the same passing through and locking the third-named loops respectively, and so on.

11. A method of tlnead-structure formation consisting in projecting two loops of locking or needle-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions, then projecting two loops of surface or looperthreads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions and through said two loops of looking or needle-threads respeo tively, then in an advanced position project ing two more loops of said locking or needlethreads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions and through the aforesaid surface-thread loops respectively, then projecting two more loops of said surface or looper-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions and through said last-named locking or needle-thread loops respectively, and so on.

12. A method of thread-structure formation consisting in simultaneously projecting two loops of locking or needle-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions, then simultaneously projecting two loops of surface or looper-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions and through said two loops of locking or needle-threads respectively, then in an advanced position simultaneously projecting two more loops of said looking or needlethreads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions and through the aforesaid surface-thread loops respectively, then simultaneously projecting two more loops of said surface or looper-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions and through said lastnamed locking or needle-thread loops respectively, and so on.

13. A method of seam formation consisting in projecting two loops of locking or needlethreads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions through fabric, then projecting two loops of surface or looper-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions on opposite sides respectively of the fabric and through said two loops of looking or needlethreads respectively, then in an advanced position projecting two more loops of said looking or needle-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions through the aforesaid surface-thread loops respectively and through the fabric, then projecting two more loops of said surface or looper-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions on opposite sides respectively of the fabric and through said last-named looking or needle-thread loops respectively, and so on.

14. A method of seam formation consist ing in simultaneously projecting two loops of looking or needle-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions through fabric, then simultaneously projecting two loops of surface or looper-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite direc tions on opposite sides respectively of the fabric and through said two loops of looking or needle-threads respectively, then in an advanced position simultaneously projecting two more loops of said looking or needlethreads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions through the aforesaid surface-thread loops respectively and through the fabric, then simultaneously projecting two more loops of said surface or looper-threads in approximate parallelism from opposite directions on opposite sides respectively of the fabric and through said last-named looking or needle-thread loops respectively, and so on.

15. In a thread structure, the combination of a succession of approximately parallel loops of thread extending across the structure in one face thereof, a succession of approximately parallel loops of thread extending across the structure in the other face thereof, a thread extending back and forth through the structure along one edge thereof and passing twice through each loop in one face of the structure and locking the loops of both faces of the structure along said edge thereof, another thread extending back and forth through the structure along the other edge thereof and passing twice through each loop in the other face of the structure and locking the loops of both faces of the structure along said edge thereof, the loops in the opposite faces of the structure being interconnected by said threads in such manner that each said loop is connected at one end at one edge of the structure to a loop in the other face of the structure, and is connected at its other end at the other edge of the structure to an alternately succeeding loop in said other face of the structure.

16. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of a succession of approximately parallel loops of thread extending diagonally across the seam in one face thereof, a'succession of approximately parallel loops of thread extending diagonally across the scam in the other face thereof, a thread extending back and forth through the fabric along one edge of the seam and passing twice through each loop in one face of the seam and looking the loops of both faces of the seam along said edge thereof, another thread extending back and forth through the fabric along the other edge ofthe seam and passing twice through each loop in the other face of the seam and looking the loops of both faces of the seam along said edge thereof, the loops in the opposite faces of the seam being interconnected by said threads in such manner that each said loop is connected at one end at one edge of the seam to a loop in the other face of the seam and is connected at its other end at the other edge of the seam to an alternately succeeding loop in said other face of the seam.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ARTHUR A. MERRI'TT.

Witnesses:

WILLIAM T. LIDDALL, A. L. URQUHART.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G. 

